Our travels through Buddhist hinterland-Deoghar-Bihar-Uttar Pradesh-Nepal-Uttar Pradesh
Posted on the 10th October, 2025
Om Namo Shivay, Har har mahadev, Jai Mahadev, Jai baba Vishwanath are the most common chants in any Hindu temple. But when it comes to jyotirlinga, fervor of devotees reaches its high pitch frequently to chant God’s name in a way you like it, and chant in chorus follows. So, we had an opportunity to visit the jyortirling at Deoghar in Jharkhand, popularly called Baba Baijnath jyotirling. We decided to take a longer circular route to visit many other religious and tourist places in their states and in the neighbouring country, Nepal. Essentially, this tour of 9 days of air, rail and road travel focussed on locations related to Buddhism and culminated our faith in the larger goods that humanity seeks to attain. We were a group of six people, four joining from New Delhi and two of us from Mumbai.
Day 1-September 28, 2025
We left by air from Mumbai at about 1.30 pm by Indigo airline and reached Deoghar at 7 pm via New Delhi. This flight served beverages free if one buys eatables. The flight was comfortable throughout, with interconnecting gap of about one and half hr at New Delhi. At Deoghar, we checked in our hotel which was near the Baba Baijnath temple.
Day 2-September 29, 2025
We visited the Baba Baijnath temple [1] at about 9 am. It was crowded as we lined up. Along the procession were chants of Baba, loud and clear. Hot and humid weather added further to our agonies. After an hr, we quit this general queue and decided to take a fast moving queue paying Rs 300/-each. Unfortunately, after some time, our queue merged with the general one, slowing our movement towards sanctum sanctorium (garbh grih). As many devotees were quite distressed after having been in queue for long time, all struggled a lot to finally have a glimpse of Shivlinga in black stone, and to revere with water, bel-leaves and other offerings that lord Shiva is said to like. We just took a glimpse of Shiva and poured water and threw flowers on it, and came out of garbh-grih drenched in sweat. Later, we visited Parvati temple which is just nearby. Besides devotees, there were many others, hawkers, shop keepers, pandits and go-in between, and finally beggers. If due care is not taken by the authorities, this place could be close to dreadful stampede. This visit left me with the feeling that the Government intervention is needed to streamline the flow of devotees, make the temple surroundings more spacious and provide this religious place an uplift in terms of infrastructure. We took about two and half hr to pay our obeisance to Baba Baijnath and have had a satisfaction of fulfilling our wish.
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We left Deoghar at about 3.10 pm by Vande Bharat train and reached Gaya at about 7 pm. We checked in Hotel for night stay.
Day 3-September 30, 2025
At Gaya, we visited the Vishnupad Vedi temple [2,4] at 6 am in the morning. As the name suggests, this temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu; with imprint of Lord’s feet. Our obeisance was very nice smooth experience as there was no crowd. The surroundings was relatively clean. In this temple, devotees are not allowed to take mobile phones inside and hence, we deposited our mobile phones in the lockers near the entrance. Close to this temple, flows a river called Phalgu (Falgu) or Niranjan or Nilanjan. Gaya holds a special significance for Hindus, as they perform pind-dan (offering of cooked rice-balls) to the departed souls of deceased ancestors to attain moksha (liberation from cycle of birth and rebirth) [3]. So, we found many performing pind-dan, with pandit chanting shlokas. We did not do so, as we were short of time and did not believe in this ritural.
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We hired a taxi in the morning and went to Bodh-Gaya, the most famous place for Buddhists. We visited the Great Buddha statue [5] in white marble and lined up along were those of his first ten disciples. Later, we visited Mahabodhi temple [6], quite a magnificent old temple with Bodhi tree (peepal tree) where Siddharth Gautam is reported to have attained enlightenment and came to be known as Gautam Buddha. This 2500-year old temple is recognized by UNESCO for its archeological and cultural heritage.
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There are many other temples or monasteries of different countries. We visited one called White Buddha (Japanese) and Taiwanese.
Later, in the afternoon, we visited Rajgir (Raja gruh) which is about 3000 year old and was the capital of Magadh empire that reined between 7th and 4th century BC. It has a magnificent white Stupa (dome shaped Buddhist monument) [7] with Buddha statues in different states of mind. This stupa is on a top of hillock which is connected by ropeway.
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On our way to Nalanda, was Son Bhandar or Swarn Bhandar (Gold store)[8,9], the giant rock caves with carvings built as early as the 3rd or 4th century AD built by Jain monk Shri Vairaj deva. It is believed to have a treasure of king Bimbisara. Some believe that these caves are much older, about 3rd century BC belonging to Maurya’s period (319 to 180 BCE). Baraber caves, the first artificial caves of India, are reportedly of this period of 319-180 BCE. We missed visiting Barabar caves. We also missed visiting hot water spring near Rajgir, reported to be connected from Son Bhandar.
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By late afternoon, we reached Nalanda and visited ruins of ancient Nalanda University [10.11]. It is spread over a large area for housing students and teachers of the period. An evidence of stupas, hostel rooms, meditation halls planned well is seen in the form of well laid bricks and structures with plenty of open spaces. These ruins are recognized by UNESCO too. We had a guide here to understand the importance of this ancient monument. We missed seeing Nalanda archeological museum. We reached ICAR-Research Complex for Eastern Region [12] located near airport in Patna by late evening where we stayed in the guesthouse (thanks Dayanand ji for your support).
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Day 4-October 1, 2025
We had a morning walk in the campus, saw demo plots of paddy with organic inputs and enjoyed view of aeroplanes descending and ascending close to our guesthouse. We visited Gurdwara Patna sahib, also called Takht Sri Harminder ji Patna Sahib [13], one of the five takhts of Sikhism. It is a birth place of Guru Gobind Singh, the tenth Sikh Guru. Thereafter, we visited Badi Patan devi temple, reported to be one of the 51 shakti peeths. On the way, to Gol ghar (storage structure built for food grains), as we travelled along the highway, we could see vast expanse of the Ganges. We visited from outside the Gol ghar which was closed, so was the Gandhi Sangrahalaya [14] and Bihar Museum, as 1st Oct was holiday due to Navmi of Durga puja. We returned to the guesthouse where we had lunch and then had a rest. Most tourist places were closed due to holiday which dampened our spirit . In fact, it served to recharge us too. We had earlier seen hectic activities of putting of statues of Ravan and others at Gandhi maidan in Patna where dignitaries were expected. Ravan dahan (death of Ravan) on the 10th day (Dussehra) is the most important end of Ram Navmi which symbolises victory of good over evil.
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Day 5-October 2, 2025
We hired a taxi to go to Vaishali and Chhapra. We visited the Vishwa Shanti Stupa (World Peace Monument)[15] which is constructed by Nipponzan Myhoji and Rajgir Buddha Vihar Society. This is the result of initiation of Stupa constructions by the most Ven. Nichidatsu Fuji Guruji, who saw the destruction of Nagasaki and Hiroshima with atomic bomb in August, 1945 and wished to have stupas for peace and love all over the world. Unfortunately, we could not visit it from inside as the 2nd October was public holiday, due to birthday of Mahatma Gandhi, father of our nation. Later, we visited excavation site where Ashok Pillar [16] and other stupas in flat ancient ruin formats are found nearby, at Kolhua, a part of ancient Vaishali city. This place, probably about 3000 years old belonging to Maurya’s period, is significant in the Buddha’s life, as it is here he lived for many years. He allowed nuns to the sangha (organization) and developed this area to have monastery and kutagarshala (resting place for travelling devotees as well as venue for spiritual discussion), gave last sermon to his followers and announced his approaching passing away (nirvana). This is a beautiful place, clean and austere in its natural surroundings. Near the brick stupa is located a 18.3 meter high red sandstone pillar with a statue of lion seated at the top, called Ashoka pillar or lion pillar [17]. Ashoka, the Great had many pillars built in different locations mostly in North India.
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We visited a nearby Basokund [18,19] where Bhagwan Mahavir was born. Bhagwan Mahavir is the 24th and last tirthankara who is credited with revival of Jainism. Here is a great temple, clean and peaceful, and stands in the front a majestic pillar in white marble. Bhagwans’ statue of his childhood is in black marble in the basement.
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We later were on the way to Chirand archeological site, but it was getting late, with rains about to lash out. We missed this important site as well as Ambika Bhavani temple, another Shakti peeth. We decided to go to Chhapra railway station. We left Chhapra at about 8 pm by Poorbiya Express, and reached Gorakhpur at 10 pm and then took rest for a night. We had a bad experience with our taxi driver, as he was late and unmindful of our travel needs.
Day 6-October 3, 2025
We visited Gorakhnath temple [20] in the morning. It was clean and spacious. The deity is in white marble. Gorakhpur is also famous for Gita Press which is the largest and oldest publishing house for Hindu religious books. We did not visit it due to lack of time. After a breakfast, we proceeded by taxi to Kushinagar which is about 60 km from Gorakhpur. Kushinagar has pagodas (Chinese and Vietnamese structured) and stupas (round dome shaped) [21]. We visited ancient stupa and nirvana temple [22] where Buddha is in sleeping position. There is a lot of excavation, with well laid brickwork. Kushinagar is a final resting place where Buddha took nirvana.
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We then proceeded at about 2 pm to Lumbini in Nepal through Sunauli, border town from Indian side while Belahiya is at Nepal side. We reached Lumbini at 6.30 pm and then visited Mahadevi temple [23,24] where Buddha was born. The lighting was enough to see around but it was dark beyond.
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Day 7-October 4, 2025
We again visited the Mahadevi temple in the morning. The prestine forest surrounds this temple, which is meticulously maintained. It is very peaceful and very austere. There are excavations inside and one of rocks is said to carry imprint of Buddha’s feet, a place where he was borne. There is a lovely lake [25] with trees under which sermons are delivered to the devotees. There is a Ashok pillar outside the temple. This temple is mostly visited by Buddhists as well as Hindus. It was pleasure for me to see Muslim security guard right inside doing his duties.
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Pancha Sila (five principles carved on stone) carving on a rock on the way to the Mahabodhi temple conveyed a simple and powerful message of non-violence, refrain from stealing, sexual misconduct, telling lies and intoxication which still holds good for humanity.
We visited Kapilvastu [26], about 2 hr drive especially, nearby Kudan (jump) referring to a giant who could jump from one mound to another. Identified as an important archeological site in 1899, this is believed to have been a place where Gautam Buddha met his father several years after his departure from Kapilvastu and where his son Rahul became a monk. We stayed for about two hr here and left at 1 pm and reached Nepal-India border at 2.30 pm.
[26]We crossed over to the Indian border town, Sonauli (Siddharthnagar-Naugarh)[27] from Lumbini after completing formalities with custom authorities, and reached Shravasti (district place) by 7 pm. We stayed at very nice Buddha Residency hotel for a night (thanks Abdulla, with best wishes for your hotel venture).
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Day 8-October 5, 2025
Shravasti or Sravasti was an ancient capital of Kosal mahajanapada during the 6th century BCE. We left to see excavations sites at Sahet (Jetavana) in Shravasti-Ikauna where Buddha spent about 24-25 monsoon of his life preaching and meditating and performing many miracles like multiple images of his own. This excavation site [28,29] is vast area well maintained with greenery and foot paths along the ancient ruins. Many devotees were seen in groups conducting sermons under trees. There are archeological signs of stupa or vihara as well as water-wells for monks in the olden times.
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We also saw angulimala cave [30] where he prayed and angulimala stupa, and the birth place of Sambhavanath, third Jain tirthankara [31]. The statue of Sambhavanath is in Bihar Museum. We could not see Mahamangaljai temple as it was closed. Shravasti has many monasteries, stupas, temples built for the Buddhist pilgrims and differed in their architecture.
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We then left for Chhapaiya where Swami narayana temple [32] is located. We reached here at about 2.30 pm. As the temple was closed, we waited for some time in the restaurant. This is also a birth place of Swami Narayan, a sect of Hindu predominant in Gujarat. This is also a beautiful temple.
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We left Chhapaiya and reached Ayodhya by 6 pm. We left our taxi. Upon arrival in our hotel, we visited the Hanuman Gadhi temple [33]. There was a lot of crowd and we got just a glimpse of Hanuman ji.
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Day 9-October 6, 2025
We visited Ram mandir in the morning at about 9 am. As we had passes (tickets for darshan [obeisance]), we had a soothing experience of obeisance to Lord Ram, the magnificent black marble statue. Later, we visited Ram darbar wherein statues of Ram, Lakshman, Sita, Hanuman and Bharat in white marble were put up. I was wondering as to whose idea was it to have Ram statue in black marble and while Ram darbar was of white marble. Darshan passes are free, but need to be booked in advance of fortnight online. The temple is still in the state of construction. Its vast expanse eventually will be quite pleasing as and when it is complete in all aspects. We visited Kanak Bhavan and Dashrath Mahal [34] and then went to ghat at Sarayu river [35]. We had a boat ride, about Rs 150 per person.
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We left Ayodhya by the Vande Bharat express at 4 pm, and reached Varanasi at about 6.30 pm. We were received at the railway station by our relatives. We reached our hotel in Luxa area of Varanasi. At about 9.30 pm, we visited Kashi Vishwanath temple and had a good darshan of Baba Vishwanath as there was less crowd and movement was orderly. We visited the surroundings. It is far better than what we visited about 30 years ago.
Day 9-October 7, 2025
We visited ghats of Varanasi. Nalini had a bath at one of these ghats. Water was dirty with lot of fine sand but faith did not deter her from having a dip. Some of these ghats are well developed. Dashameshghat [36,37] is one of them. Varanasi attracts a lot of visitors and hence, it is quite crowded. The traffic is insane, as everyone appears to be in hurry, throwing rules to the winds. After these ghat visits, we left the Luxa area at about 12.30 pm for airport, checked in at 1.30 pm, and departed 30 min late at 3.40 pm by Air India Express to land two hr later at terminal 1 instead of terminal 2, all due to VIP arrival. we bade bye to our relatives (and the best hosts) who came to see us off at the airport [38]. We reached home at about 9.15 pm, more than two hr late. In Varanasi, we missed watching Ganga aarti, visiting Kabir Bhavan, Hanuman temple, Tulsi Manas temple, Bharat Kala Bhavan in BHU and a nearby Buddhist location, Sarnath.
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This nine-day Buddhism and Hinduism tour costs each one of about Rs 30,000/-. We hardly saw any bill boards or signs of religious fundamentalism like one I saw at Nashik. Most Buddhist temples were calm and tranquil, while many Hindu temples were noisy, blaring prayers without any guilt of disturbing the peaceful environment that most would love to live in. It was wonderful experience to learn a lot through personal interactions during travel. Saint Augustine said of travel, “the world is a book, and those who do not travel learn read only a page”.
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