We are roadies again: Saurashtra Pilgrimage during 16-27 September, 2023

It was in December 2021 that we thought of visiting Dwarka and Somnath, holy places of the Hindu, but could not do so. And hence, now was an occasion due to the Ganesh festival’s holidays for our grandchildren. We seized this opportunity to visit places en-route as given in the sketch below. This journey also involved a ferry from Hazira RO RO terminal (near Surat)(A) to Ghogha RO RO terminal (near Bhavnagar)(B) and return, which shortened our trip by road by 4 hr giving us a feel of Arabian sea that intrudes into the Gulf of Khambayat.

16 September 2023

We left Mumbai at 6.35 am with odometer reading of car at 15072 km following NH48. We had three stops for breakfast and rest before reaching our hotel at Ichhapor on the outskirt of Surat, close to Hazira RO RO terminal (A) at about 2 pm. As we approached our destination, we could see thick black air-filled skies due to pollution, reminding us of Delhi. En-route, we crossed six toll stations, paying a total of Rs 450/- toll tax. Road journey was smooth, except while leaving Mumbai due to traffic congestion, rains for some time and some potholes on the way. Munching the home-made food for breakfast and eating snacks at restaurants kept us in high spirit to drive until our destination. In the evening, we strolled around and ate fire-roasted mungfali near our hotel.

17 September 2023

We left the hotel at 6.30 am and reached the Hazira RO RO terminal (A) by 7.15 am travelling a distance of about 20 km. On the way, there were many factories and industries in this industrial belt of Surat-Hazira. At 8 am, we loaded our car and within about 15 min, our ferry left for Ghogha RO RO terminal (B). The ferry journey took us about 4 hr, but we were quite delayed as we unloaded our car from the ferry. The ferry was quite huge with a capacity to carry more than 120 trucks and cars, and more than 100 passengers. We enjoyed the sea journey across the Gulf of Khambayat and did not suffer sea sickness. There were restaurant as well as other entertainment stuff on the ferry. We left Ghogha (B) at about 1 pm for Palitana.

Before boarding the ferry at Ghogha RO RO ferry terminal

On the deck of ferry; quite windy with sea all around
 

Palitana is a holy place of Jainism, which was full of devotees, as this was time of annual paryushan festival. During this festival, the jains fast, meditate, pray and perform purification rituals in the important temples. Palitana has the hill called Shatrunjaya where temples are built at the top, about 5000 steps above the taleti (hill footstep). At taleti too, there is temple wherein the feet engravings (paduka) of the first thirthankar, Rishabhdev, also called Rishabhantha, Adishwar, Adinath or Kesariya are worshipped. It is here that Rishabhantha delivered the first sermon to his followers, and established the new religion, Jainism. We worshipped here and dropped an idea to go up the hill to see other temples. This hill has the highest congregation of temples in the world.

In Palitana 

long shot of Shatrunjaya temple at Palitana 

At Shatrunjaya taleti where paduka of Rishabhantha are worshipped 

18 September 2023

We left Palitana at about 7.30 am and reached Talaja at 9 am where we visited Khodiyar mata (Hindu) temple and then Jain temple located above on the same hill. After spending one hr, we left for Diu. On the way, it rained a lot for about 15-20 min. We saw a beautiful Swaminarayan temple at Mahuva where we had an unscheduled stop at noon. We spent about an hour, prayed and then took lunch.

 

  Swaminarayan temple at Mahuva 

Later we reached Diu at about 3 pm. It was raining mildly as we approached Diu (C). We managed to see Fortress, worship at Gangeshwar Mahadev temple and then visit INS Khukri Memorial at the sea side. The Diu fortress was built in the 16^th century by the Portuguese who occupied this island until December 1961 when it was liberated by the Indian forces.

Talaja Hill housing Khodiyar as well as Jain temples

Khodiyar mata temple

Jain temple

Caves at Talaja hill-buddhists, jain and hindu
 

Khukri memorial at Diu

Gangeshwar Mahadev at Diu

Diu Fortress

Diu Fortress entrance

Gangeshwar mahadev temple is of five shivlings close to sea shore and get washed during high tides. We prayed here too. 

INS Khukri Memorial is very well developed for the tourists with a small beach to stroll around.

Painting or photo?

19 September 2023

We left Diu at about 9.15 am. As we closed in the city of Somnath (D), we visited briefly the market that sold some local vegetables. We reached Somnath at about 11.30 am and visited the Bhalka tirth temple where Lord Krishna died due to arrow of the forest hunter. We reached hotel at about 1.20 pm and rested for about 3 hr. Later we visited the Jyotirling temple-huge black stone shivling and walls decorated with gold. There was an adequate air conditioning and cleanliness. Devotees are not allowed to carry purse, mobile or car remote. Later, we visited an old Shiv temple re-built with generous donation of Ahilyadevi Holkar in 1780s. We worshipped at this temple as there were no restrictions and purchased some religious books published by Gita Press, the largest publisher of Hindu religious books in Gorakhpur, U.P. Then, we visited Lord Krishna temple, triveni sangam near the sea and then returned to hotel.

Bhalka tirth temple where Lord Krishna died 

Nalini praying at the Bhalkha tirth temple

At old temple of Somnath re-built by Ahilyadevi Holkar in 1780s

Somnath temple in the background, as photography inside complex is banned.
 

20 September 2023

We left Somnath at 8.20 am and reached Porbandar (in between D and E) wherein we visited Kirti Mandir (Mahatma Gandhi’s birth place) and Kasturba’s parental house at 11 am for an hour. On the way, I chanced to see Halal shop near the masjid, which is a rare hoarding for meat shops in India. Later, we got our car washed for Rs 200/- as it was quite dirty due to rains and mud, as no regular clean-up made a difference. After lunch at the roadside restaurant, we reached Dwarka (E) at 3.20 pm. We visited Dwarkadheesh temple in the evening. We returned to hotel by 7.30 pm and after dinner, called it a day.

on the way to Porbandar

Parental home of Kasturba

At Kirti Bhavan, birth place of Mahatma Gandhi

At Kirti Bhavan, Porbandar
 

God has many names. Only one common is truth. Truth is God only. (In Mahatma’s writing)

21 September 2023

We again visited, in the morning, the Dwarkadheesh temple, Gomti ghat, Nageshwar Jyotirling and Rukmini temples and returned to hotel by noon. In the late afternoon, I swam in the swimming pool of hotel. In the evening, we visited Bhadkeshwar Mahadev temple and then Shivrajpur (Okhamandal) beach which is quite long and beautiful.

We could not visit Beyt Dwarka.

Dwarkadheesh temple in the background where photography inside is banned

Nageshwar Jyotirling temple at Dwarka

Rukmini temple at Dwarka

Bhadkeshwar Mahadev temple

At Shivrajpur beach near Dwarka
 

 22 September 2023

We left Dwarka in the morning for Junagadh (F). On the way close to Porbandar, we visited Jambuvant cave at Amardad. We reached Junagadh at about 2 pm and then went to see Ambaji temple at Girnar hills. We went by ropeway (air trolley) as this Girnar temple complex is situated on the hills, at least 5000-7000 ft above the ground level. After Amba mata darshan, Nalini went to pray at Gorakhnath temple over the nearby hill and then we returned to JAU guest house.

In the evening, we were invited by our old IARI associate now in IFS, Junagadh to his home where we met his wife and their son. After dinner and discussion, we returned to the guest house.

Sheeps on the way to Junagadh

Inside the Jambuvant caves near Junagadh

On the way to Amba mata temple near Girnar hills near Junagadh

On the way to Gorakhnath temple on Girnar hills near Junagadh

A view of Jain temple from above where the Amba mata temple is located on the Girnar hill complex
 

23 September 2023

In the morning, we left for Devalia park (towards Somnath) to see lions and other wildlife. We reached Devalia park after one hr, and had a great time here. Sasan Gir National Park was closed as it is monsoon. It opens from October onwards until May. We then returned to Junagadh and visited Antique Coin Museum, Narsi Mehta ni Choro, Makabara, Sakkarbaug zoo in the forenoon, and then shifted to the Rest House and on the way, saw Ashoka shilalekh (Ashoka rock edicts, ca 300-400 BC). This is quite interesting as Buddhism spread far and wide. These rocks edicts prescribe principles of living as per Buddhism tenets.

Lions at Devalia park

Deers at Devalia park

Ashoka, the Great, rock edicts of 200-350 BC

Narsinh Mehta, Gujarat poet, saint and devotee of Lord Krishna

In the background is the famous makabara of Junagadh. 
 

24 September 2023

We left Junagadh in the morning and reached Kodaldham at 9.15 am. Here we visited this relatively new temple and after an hour, left for Virpur, which is nearby. Virpur is known for the temple of Saint Jalaram bappa. Jalaram bappa was a Hindu saint during early 19^th century who worshipped Lord Krishna and is known for simple living. We left Virpur at about 11 am and arrived at BAPS Swaminarayana temple at Sarangpur (G). It is a huge temple complex where we stayed for a night. We visited Kashtbanjan (Hanuman) temple which is just in front of the Swaminarayan temple in the evening. We had lunch as well as dinner at temple complex.

At Kodaldham temple on the way to Virpur

Swaminarayana temple at Sarangpur

Kashtabanjan temple at Sarangpur

Swaminarayana temple at Sarangpur
 

25 September 2023

We left Sarangpur at 8.30 am. On the way, Nalini did some shopping and purchased prasad (sweet offering) too. Later, we reached BAPS Swaminarayan temple in Bhavnagar (H). We had lunch and then some rest. In the evening, we had darshan of Swaminaranayana.

 

26 September 2023

We left Bhavnagar in the morning at about 6.30 am and reached Ghogha RO RO terminal by 7.15 am. We loaded our car in the ferry which departed at about 8.15 am. We arrived at Hazira RO RO terminal at 2 pm. Then, we started our journey and arrived at Navsari Agricultural University at about 4.30 pm. I then paid courtesy visit to the Hon’ble VC Dr Zinabhai Patel. Later, we returned to the guest house.

Return to Hazira from Ghogha  

27 September 2023

We left Navsari at 8 am and en-route, visited Fruit Res Stn of the NAU. It was an educational visit. This stn is more than 100 years old research station. It has developed many innovative crop propogation techniques for fruit crops. We spent almost one and half hr. Later, we started our return journey and reached home at about 4.30 pm. As we entered Thane, we were greeted with thunderstorm and rains.

 

During this tour, we covered a distance of 1,823 km, paid Rs 12,500/-for petrol, about Rs 1,630/-for toll tax, Rs 5,200/- for ferry, Rs xyz for hotel, food and other sundry expenses. A day later, I serviced a car for Rs 7,864/-.

In the hind-sight, I thought our journey would be washed away in rains at most places, but it was not so. At many places, we had a pleasant environment of cloudiness and sunshine, with temperature below 32 °C. During the journey, we drove past one scooter-car accident on the way to Mahuva, and many deaths of dogs and cats on the road. Road conditions were relatively good, at times, diversions meant only one side to be used. Some state highways are in poor conditions especially between Palitana and Talaja and return from Porbandar diversion towards Jambuvant cave and back to Junagadh, Junagadh to Devalia and back. There is a need for proper road signs as well as for places. Cattle on the main roads was common sight and we had to drive carefully. There were many sheep and goat herds, besides cows and buffaloes being taken for pasture feeding along the road. At times, these were nuisance as they blocked traffic. Saurashtra is an important farmland, known for cultivation of cotton, groundnut, soybean, sorghum, maize, bajra. We did not see farm workers during journey probably because it was late or rainy or land owners did not care. We also did not see orchards along the route, as expected. The landscape is dotted with windmills to generate electricity. There were many roadside restaurants, most adding local flavour to the cuisines served commonly. Visit to these temples sometime left a bad feeling of exploitation of worshippers by priests and temple trusts. Even small donations add to the total of millions of rupees. I was having an overdose of temples, but realised that it was integral part of Indian concept of travel. In sum, it was a very enjoying and satisfying journey.